In a Style of Their Own

Posted by joey_chin under Exhibitions, Museums/Heritage Galleries
(0) Comment • (2926) Reads • Permalink

Nondescript is not an adjective you would use when it comes to describing the style of the Peranakans of the 19^th century and 20^th century. Not after you have viewed Baba Bling at the Peranakan Museum.

I personally would use “Ornamented” but whatever your choice of lexica, it is safe to say that the Peranakans, especially the Bibiks and Nonyas then invested tremendous effort to look impeccable and put together. From their customary kerosang to storage solutions of chests and drawers to mourning fashion, it was all about opulence and details.

The Peranakan women were severely disciplined dress-wise; their hair were always combed back in a bun, their baju panjang held together by the omnipresent trio of brooches, and the choice of earrings always worn to represent youth and marital status (dangling for the girls, studs for the older, married women).

There was no doubt they fulfilled a regime of style expected of their culture, but the women had fun. Well, not just fun. They had a ball of a time injecting quirks, personalities and motifs into designing their accessories- all handmade by a gold craftsman in their homes, no less.

The Peranakans favoured their gold and suasa, specifically nine carat gold. They were made into kerosang, usually in filigree flora patterns and studded with diamonds. Besides sustaining the function of securing the baju panjang, they also wore it as a badge of ostentation. The larger, the fancier, the shinier it was- all the better. In the event of death, even their flair was evident. The gold and diamonds were replaced by brooches created out of silver and mother-of-pearl.

Besides the kerosang, another accessory that Peranakan women were particular about was rings, wearing up to six at once. The architecture of rings ranged from the usual rosettes to whimsical shapes of food like the buah kana (Chinese olives). They were also innovative enough to have them fashioned into such a manner that the rings later could be unscrewed and attached to be worn as earrings.

Their style extended to their storage of accessories and valuables. Despite being called “tu bunga” (flower cupboards), such hand carved drawers and chests were engraved with butterfly and phoenix motifs. They were used to ensconce hairpins, combs and bangles.

This showcase of their jewelry may simply be another fraction of their lifestyle then- almost as ordinary as their traditional food or language, but the grandiose by today’s standard makes it beyond fascinating. The Bibiks probably didn’t know it, but their style has evolved them educational emissaries of today.

Rating: +1