Abode of Peace: Brunei Between Tradition and Modernity (Part 1)

Posted by yesterday.sg under Folklore, Heritage Sites and Trails, Reflections, Traditions
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Built by the 28th Sultan of Brunei, the Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque is an impressive monument. It dominates the sky line behind Kampong Ayer and its golden dome is its architectural signature.

An oxymoron - that was my sentiments towards Brunei Darussalam, when I was first told of the visit to be made. It is a country which is so near, yet one which I know very little about. It should also be a country with which I ought to feel a certain sense of connection, as I have relatives who are Bruneians. Yet, in another way, my relatives are almost complete strangers now. Even if I were to see them on the streets of Brunei, I would not recognise them. With a mixed bag of feelings and without a clear sense of what to expect, I embarked on my 4-day sojourn in Bandar Seri Begawan, capital of Brunei Darussalam.

Brunei Darussalam - an exceedingly beautiful name, it means the abode of peace. Just the name itself conjures images of what one expects to see upon landing. Peace is something mankind has been seeking - peace with oneself, peace with one’s environs, peace with one’s fellow men. Yet, it is always elusive. Perhaps over the course of my 4-day visit, I may be able to experience some form of peace, even if it is just momentarily and still this-worldly.

As a society, Brunei is traditional, yet modern. The Islamic faith permeates just about every aspect of the country. From the state flag and state motto, the Islamic way of life is apparent. Even in the face of modernisation, the country has not lost sight of its Islamic faith. It seeks a balanced approach towards modernisation while meeting the requirements of the faith. This is truly admirable.

While the world continues to debate about the impact of globalisation and modernisation on the traditional ways of life, Brunei seems to be walking on this tightrope with relative ease. The country is very aware that its key economic drivers, oil and natural gas, may be exhausted in due course. Hence, to develop sustainable economic strategies, it is looking to alternative channels of growth. On the back of its Islamic faith, the country is looking to develop Brunei into a hub for Islamic banking, halal food, cosmetics and medicine processing. What a perfect solution to the demand of survival and keeping the faith alive!

The power of faith in art and architecture

History has proven the power of faith in leading artistic development. In Brunei, this has also been the case. The Islamic faith has inspired art and cultural developments; Islamic-inspired geometric designs, calligraphy, floral and vegetal scrollwork are used extensively in the traditional arts and crafts of kain tenunan Brunei (Brunei brocade), seni hisan kayu (woodcraft), anyaman (weaving), silver and brass smiting and songkok making.

Realistic presentation of the traditional way of life – a display at the Malay Technology Museum shows the extraction of sugar cane juice; a rather labourious task. But certainly a sweet treat to enjoy!

At the Malay Technology Museum and Brunei Arts and Handicrafts Training Centre, one can see the ingenuity and fine artistry of Bruneian craftsmen from early Brunei to present. What impressed me even more is that the Sultan does not commission a royal workshop, but looks to the Brunei Arts and Handicrafts Training Centre to produce royal ware. Such direct and practical support from the Sultan to the promotion of locally made traditional arts and crafts injects a strong boost of confidence towards the status of traditional arts and crafts in this increasingly modernised world.

The magnificent interior of the Jame Asr’ Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque reflects the power of faith to inspire beautiful works of art in honour of the One who creates.

Faith has also inspired some of the most beautiful architecture in the land, including mosques, such as the Jame’ Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque. Built in 1988 and endowed by the current Sultan, Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah, the Jame’ Asr Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque is the largest mosque in Brunei. It is aesthetically impressive - the male prayer hall alone covers 60,000 square feet, can accommodate 3,500 worshippers at any one time and is decorated with a 24-carat gold plated crystal chandelier. However, it stays true to its purpose - to serve the faith.

The design of the mosque harkens worshippers to the fundamentals of the faith - the courtyard features five fountains, which are symbolic of the five pillars of faith in Islam and the five daily prayer times. The dome in the main prayer hall is decorated with Qur’anic calligraphy; reminding the congregation of the teachings of the faith. Function and form are both well-served in this magnificent building. Besides being a gathering place for congregational prayer and learning, the mosque has an extensive library carrying 22,000 books spanning over 5,000 titles on Islam. To all with a spiritual hunger, this library will most certainly provide the manna of spiritual nourishment!

The Sultan, in addition to being the Head of State, also acts as a spiritual beacon to the Bruneians. His Majesty contributes directly to the people’s rich cultural experience by putting up his extensive private collection, particularly on Islamic materials and objects which include walking sticks (which serve as a reminder of man’s mortality), Korans and prayer beads, for public viewing. The Sultan’s collection can be viewed at the Islamic Art Gallery in the Brunei Museum as well as the Islamic Gallery in the State’s Mufti Office. Through the displays of the Sultan’s collection, these galleries aim to remind the people of their Islamic heritage and legacy for the future generations. Through this, the Sultan as ruler of the land, acts as a spiritual inspiration to the people.

(to be continued…)

Written by Amanda Chan
Manager (International Relations), National Herutage Board

Published in BeMUSE (Volume 3, Issue 2, Apr to Jun 2010)