Abode of Peace: Brunei Between Tradition and Modernity (Part 2)

Posted by yesterday.sg under Heritage Sites and Trails, Reflections, Traditions, art
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…continued from Abode of Peace: Brunei Between Tradition and Modernity (Part 1).

Tourism that benefits the community

Being aware of the value of their cultural heritage and with the need to seek alternative avenues of economic development, Brunei has begun to look at tourism, weaving in the historical and cultural experience, as a new revenue stream. While Brunei is not readily equipped with tourism infrastructure, it is looking at experiential tourism to impress foreign visitors.

Kampong Ayer - The world’s largest living water village, dating from the 10th C AD. While rich in history, the village has been upgraded with modern amenities, such as sewage system, fresh water and electricity supply. Nonetheless, it has not lost its tranquility and idyllic heartbeat.

The Tourism Department has positioned Kampong Ayer, the birthplace of Brunei and also the world’s largest living water village dating to 10^th century AD, as a tourism hotspot. Kampong Ayer is slated to be the first touchdown spot for tourists, in order that they gain an understanding and appreciation of Brunei’s beginnings before proceeding to see Brunei in the present.

Experiencing the traditional way of life, trades and crafts is also promoted a tourism encounters.  In partnership with local communities, the Tourism Department develops kampong visits and home-stays as part of the tourist experience. In this area, community involvement in tourism development is a key strategy to success, as exemplified in the Kampong Sungei Matan model. In partnership with the village headman, who is elected into office by the villagers of Kampong Sungei Matan, the Tourism Department is developing eco-tours and home stay programmes for tourists. Such programmes benefit both the tourists and the villagers. As the tourists get a better understanding of the Bruneian way of life, the revenue generated contributes to the improvement in the well-being of the village, funding public works improvement, subsidies for formal and informal education, and the building of communal facilities such as a library and internet facilities in the village headman’s home, which also doubles as a community centre. Indeed, this is a win-win strategy which benefits both the tourists and the local communities!

A morning of warm and sincere Bruneian hospitality, at Kampong Sungei Matan.

Inter-government agencies partnership is also critical in tourism development. This is seen in the engagement of the Tourism Department with Brunei Museums in promoting Brunei as a tourist destination. One significant project is the Tasek Merimbun Heritage Park, recognised as one of eleven ASEAN Heritage Parks and Reserves. It is promoted as an eco-tourism destination under the Heart of Borneo initiative, a collaborative effort that spans Brunei, Malaysia (Sabah and Sarawak) and Indonesia (Kalimantan) under the banner of “Three Countries, One Conservation Vision”. Community participation also features in its improvement projects; the Tasek Merimbun village headman and the villagers, civic and students groups are all involved.

Finely crafted congkak game set – lovingly fashioned by the artisans at the Brunei Arts and Crafts Training Centre.

To complement the tourism development efforts, there is also an attempt to connect the past to the present, such as through the Malay Technology Museum and the Brunei Arts and Handicraft Training Centre. While the visitors see the traditional way of life, trades and skills in the Malay Technology Museum, they see how some of these trades continue to thrive and are promoted in the Brunei Arts and Handicraft Training Centre.

It impresses me that Brunei holds the view that culture and arts are considered key indicators of economic development in Brunei’s quest for alternative sources of sustainable growth. Unlike traditional growth economic models where culture and the arts are relegated to the backwaters, I regard the Brunei model of growth as enlightened!

Seeking out contemporary artists

A perfect blend of artistry and function - fine basketry crafts on sale at a craft centre.

Perhaps one area where Brunei is lacking in is in the area of contemporary art development. Little is known of current artistic developments. Local artists appear to work in solitude; keeping to their own circles and away from the radar of the official channels. While there used to be artist group-initiated exhibitions, these have lapsed in recent years. With such a background, in addition to the lack of research on Bruneian artists, the history and extent of art development in Brunei is not known. As such, it is difficult for one to learn more about the local contemporary art scene, except through visits to private galleries such as Rainforest Gallery, which represents a few Bruneian artists.

One of the artists represented by Rainforest Gallery is Syaifuddin Badaruddin. Syaifuddin was born in Makassar, South Sulawesi, and is now a resident in Brunei Darussalam. The artist specialises in the art of soil painting; his artworks are created through a technique of coating the canvas with a layer of wet soil and shaping it to form the details. Syaifuddin works primarily in the realist style, drawing his subject matters from his environment and focusing on the life of the people and scenery in Brunei. He has held one solo show at Rainforest Gallery to date, and currently teaches art courses at the gallery.

As we make our way to the airport at the end of the visit, a sense of anomalous familiarity re-emerged. The roads of Bandar Seri Begawan are so similar to Singapore’s, and the luscious greenery reminds me of home as well. The culture,language and food - so recognisable. The distinct difference is the absence of traffic, even though it was a work day and even in the downtown of the capital. Serenity delivered with a comfortable pace of life…. This is as close as you can get to peace on earth!

Written by Amanda Chan
Manager (International Relations), National Herutage Board

Published in BeMUSE (Volume 3, Issue 2, Apr to Jun 2010)

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