Similar to the Peranakan culture, which is a rich synthesis of different cultures, the Peranakan jewellery with its motifs also suggests the changes in the different times of the past. The exhibition spans two galleries on the second and third storey. Indulging in the collection with 300 pieces of Peranakan jewellery during my visit to the museum last Friday was no mean feat. There was just so much to see and talk about, but I’ll bring you through my top 10 highlights of what I felt was special about the Peranakan jewellery.

1. Early Peranakan jewellery

Peranakan jewellery of the earlier days were mostly plain or decorated with Chinese motifs, without any distinctive Peranakan style. This, however, changed in the late 19^th century.

bangles

plain bangles

2. Anklets

The shape and style of the anklets worn by Nonyas were probably Indian-inspired. They were primarily worn by young brides or wealthy married women as status symbols. However, the practice was abandoned in the early 20^th century, possibly due to changing economic times, styles of dressing and the roles of Nonyas.

anklets

a closer look at one of the anklets

3. Belts

To the Peranakans, belts were one of the most easily portable forms of wealth – some were even made of solid gold. Though always hidden under the clothing, they proved to be useful in times of crisis when they could be sold off for cash.

Silver and mother-of-pearl buckle and belt with bird and floral motifs in silver appliqué

4. Purses

Peranakan metal purses had their ideas from silver purses made for English ladies during the Victorian era (1838 – 1901). Usually, the purses feature floral or diamond shapes as individual links and this differs from the Victorian ones which have circular silver rings linked together like chain mail. Most Peranakan purses of this type were of silver, although a wealthy few who could afford it commissioned them in solid gold.

purses

5. Rings

Traditionally, the hands of a Peranakan woman had to be adorned with at least one ring. Most rings worn by the Peranakans were made of gold and set with diamonds; although rings made of gold alloy and silver were sometimes purchased as more affordable alternatives. Do you know that Nonyas also liked to name their rings after fruits, flowers, and cakes?

Although rings were exchanged during weddings, the use of the plain wedding band is a modern practice. Traditionally, a married Peranakan woman could be identified by the way flowers were arranged on her hair bun, not that of a wedding ring.

rings

6. Kerosang (brooches used on the kebaya) made of coloured stones

Usually, Nonyas prized diamonds over coloured stones as diamonds were easy to match with their coloured garments. However, Kerosang set with coloured stones would add diversity to her jewellery collection. A popular coloured stone with the Nonyas was jade, which they called batu ranggong (after Rangoon in Myanmar which is still a major source of green jadeite today). Sometimes, dyed green quartz was used to replace jade as more affordable alternatives.

kerosang in jade

7. Kerosang of floral motifs

The floral motifs were usually taken from different sources. For example, the plum blossom, which was the symbol of spring and signified budding youth and the young Nonya, was of Chinese origin. Other floral motifs like the floral bouquet, ferns and English flowers, were adapted from European floral motifs of the Victorian and Art Nouveau period.

kerosang with floral motifs

8. Link bracelets

Link bracelets were a more recent style adopted only in the early 20^th century when Nonyas switched from the baju panjang to the kebaya. The special feature of the link bracelets were the flexible links which enabled the jewellery to lie flat on the wrist, creating a softer look, which was more favoured by the young Nonyas.

link bracelets

9. Kerosang in the first half of the 20^th century

The original design of such kerosang was probably adapted from the European-style ‘leaf’ or floral bouquet-shaped brooches of the early 20^th century, which the Chinese craftsmen modified to suit Peranakan taste. The motifs used on the kerosang include birds and insects, which were popular Peranakan fertility motifs. Compared to earlier kerosang designs, the pieces are smaller, using both less gold and smaller, flatter intan (rose-cut diamonds). This could be due to the changing dress styles and a decline in wealth.

Kerosang in the first half of the 20th century

10. Kerosang Rantay

Also made in the early 20^th century, the kerosang rantay were brooches which were linked by chains.  Those who could afford it would have the brooches set with intan (rose-cut diamonds), in the style of the period. More affordable alternatives were made of silvergilt (silver dipped in gold) and possibly set with gems like clear sapphires, which was used to simulate diamonds.

kerosang rantay