One of my most favourite comfort foods is the legendary Ramly Burger, a Malay burger in which the juicy chicken or beef patty is slathered with sauce and encased in an egg wrapper – the catch is (and this is probably a good thing for my cholesterol level) that you can only find it on sale at the Pasar Malam, or Night Market. The Pasar Malam has changed quite a fair bit in Singapore, partly because of the rise of supermarkets which are open at all times of the day, as well as strict hygiene laws that oversee the sale of raw meat and vegetables in the streets. yg takes a look at the changing face of the Pasar Malam and how much the tradition has changed in Singapore, compared to the old days.

How is the Pasar Malam different today? yg remembers:

pasar malam (night bazaars) have been around from as early as the 60s. maybe, even earlier. in those early days, the hawkers set up everything themselves. they set up their own portable tables or just lay a mat on the ground to display their ware and they provided their own lighting, using those kerosene pressure lamps or even carbide lamps. before the generator made its appearance at night markets, some would also use those florescent lights that ran on batteries.

in the old days, most pasar malam were a one-day affair. the pasar malam were scheduled according to location. ( i think, they still have this system for small towns in malaysia.) so, for example, on monday night it would be along a certain stretch of thomson road, tuesday night, it would be held at balestier road and so on.

In Malaysia, Pasar Malams still follow the ‘old way’, a travelling circuit of stalls that converge at designated areas on different day. Those are still ‘pasars’ in the true sense – one can buy fresh produce, freshly-slaughtered chicken and beef and freshly-caught seafoodfrom the makeshift stalls. And of course, there’s the Ramly Burgers, sold alongside all manner of local delights. Most people will tell you that if you’re going to buy any fresh food, to get them early in the Pasar Malam so that they can be safely scurried away to your refrigerator. The idea of buying meats left out in the tropical night for a few hours, even under ice, is an unappetizing prospect – which is proably why we don’t see it here anymore.

For more memories about Pasar Malams, check out yg’s post, Changes to the Pasar Malam Scene.