Like every HTV shoot, the team learns new things about our local heritage. Recently, we were invited by the Chinatown Business Association (CBA) to witness what goes on behind the scenes at one of our spookiest festivals – The Hungry Ghost Festival.

In Chinese tradition, the fifteenth day of the seventh month in the lunar calendar marks the start of this occasion. It is said the gates of hell open and the dead roam the earth in search of food and entertainment. Throughout the month, offerings to appease the dead – from burning paper money, preparing spreads of food and organising performances – are arranged, in hope spirits will not disrupt the lives of the living world.

It is said when someone dies, he will have three souls and each would reside in three different places – his body, the ancestral tablet in his family hall and at the underworld for judgement. It takes one three years to cross the river of life – so if one has passed on at 75 years of age, his obituary would say 78 instead.

This is usually an inauspicious period and significant events such as weddings or shifting house is strongly discouraged, while doctors claim they see a 70% drop in surgeries during the month. Many believe that accidents are more prevalent during the seventh lunar month than anytime of the year. A quick glance at our daily newspapers and you’d find an unusually high number reports of car crashes or drownings.

Of course, there’s more to the seventh lunar month than clogging the air with ash and remnants of burnt paper. As the HTV team settled into the tour kindly organised by CBA and supported by the Singapore Tourism Board, we soon realised we were the only locals present in our group. Ashamedly enough, we soon realised we were as clueless about the Hungry Ghost Festival as our golden-haired counterparts.

The local film '881' encapsulates the glitz and glamour behind the colourful world of the getai.

Many are acquainted to the spectacular getai during the Hungry Ghost Festival. Translated as “song stage” (ge = song, tai = stage), the getai is a lively singing and dancing performance and a common sight during this time of the year. These shows grew in popularity after World War II and now is a main attraction when the seventh month comes around.

The getai stage is often splashed in neon colours or pink, yellow and blue and the performers decked in flamboyant outfits – the more glitter, the more kitschy, the better! These performers are as young as five, and some even spritely in their seventies! Their earnings are dependent on their popularity – well-loved getai performers are said to rake in up to a whooping $1,000 per item!

A keen observer would realise getais would always leave the first row of seats empty. For superstitious reasons, these were reserved for the ‘good brothers’ of the netherworld. Our tour guide, recounted to us that a particular getai staged some years back  was packed to the brim. With over 4,000 people present and curious onlookers spilling from the sides of the venue, the organisers reached a consensus to open the floor and the exclusive front row for the public. Not surprisingly, the getai suffered a power blackout shortly after.  Coincidence? Maybe not. Perhaps the spirits were displeased…

At some performances, banquets are held for both the living and the not-so-departed. While the spirits enjoy the spread of food laid out for them , the marshals of the dead are well taken care of as well. Provided with amenities such as straw mats for them to rest on, soap for bathing and even opium to help them relax, these guides are in charge of escorting the ghosts back to hell once the celebrations are over.

During the banquet dinner, we witnessed a traditional ghost month auction. Mahjong sets, vats of rice and bottles of the ever-popular Martell amongst other things, were up for bidding. As the crowd became rambuctious, fervently bidding for items of desire, we were surprised that the most coveted prize was a hamper of charcoal. Also known as black gold (orh-kim), the charcoal is sought after as a symbol of prosperity. The HTV team was careful not to raise our hands lest we accidentally bid for something!

Rituals of burning paper incence, joss paper and paper goods are normally seen throughout the month. Paper money, or hell notes (the largest denomination being $100 billion!), are burnt for these spirits to spend back in hell. What was most intriguing was the various paraphernalia made with paper mache. From laptops and cigarettes, to even lacy lingerie and passable imitations of Louis Vuittion bags – the ghosts have it all catered for.

Interestingly enough, the lunar calendar, unlike its Roman counterpart, has 354 days in a year. If one does the math right, a month is repeated every three years. So imagine the amount of celebrations in 2006 where the seventh lunar month was repeated twice! This meant the spirits of the netherworld had 60 days to seek worldly indulgences. While it won’t be a while till the departed have such a treat, we left the tour reeking of incense smoke yet feeling strangely at ease that though the dead may be around us, but they might very well be smiling in contentment.

:: EDITOR’S NOTE:: Be spooked by this episode of Heritage TV!